Sixty per cent of boomers would prefer to stay in their current community when they retire, according to RBC’s 15th annual home ownership study.
“Even though this generation of zoomers will tell you they have plans to travel abroad and pursue a more active lifestyle, many still want to keep their current home in retirement,” says Catherine Adams, vice-president, RBC Royal Bank. “Having a home base that is familiar and comfortable and where they know their neighbours and their community is important to them.”
To make it possible to stay right where they are, just over half of the boomers surveyed intend to do some remodeling, while 19 per cent plan on undertaking some major renovations. As well, 24 per cent are looking to purchase a second property, or vacation house.
“We also found that boomers are not attracted to ‘seniors-only’ communities, as over three-quarters find it appealing to retire in an area where there is a mix of younger and older residents, perhaps because most of Canada’s boomers don’t see themselves as old,” says Adams.
Of the 40 per cent of boomers who do not plan to stay put in retirement, the type of communities they would prefer to move to fall into four distinct categories:
Camp 60 Plus: 29 per cent have an affinity to retire in a close-to-nature community centred on outdoor activities.
Let me entertain you: 22 per cent would prefer a setting that focuses on social interactions, activities and interests.
Survival of the fittest: 16 per cent would rather live in a community that promotes a lifestyle focused on health, fitness, nutrition and emotional well-being.
Reduce, reuse, retire: 15 per cent prefer a community supporting environmentally responsible behaviour and lifestyle.
The survey also showed that boomers want it all. When asked to rate the appeal of certain features relating to a possible retirement home, boomers were attracted to a home within walking distance of necessary services (89 per cent), close to nature (89 per cent), well-suited for entertaining family and friends (88 per cent), one which features everything on one floor (87 per cent), and one which is close to water (84 per cent).
When it comes to changes in residence that boomers are likely to make in retirement, 40 per cent say they plan to move to a region where housing is more affordably priced. Not surprisingly, after withstanding long, cold and snowy Canadian winters, many boomers, once retired, would prefer a warmer climate (35 per cent), but only a few are likely to move to a different country (11 per cent). Men (16 per cent) are more likely than women (12 per cent) to want to move to a different country in their retirement.
Boomers are not taking their adult children into consideration when thinking about their home in retirement. Sixty-one per cent are not attracted to a home that has separate quarters for adult children living at home. However, 53 per cent are interested in a home with separate living quarters designed to meet the needs of aging parents or relatives.
However, some boomers are living with both generations. While only five per cent of boomers report having their parents or in-laws living with them, 15 per cent say they have adult kids aged 21 or older living at home. Of that percentage, 41 per cent have returned home to live, and 59 per cent have never left home. One in three (30 per cent) say the primary reason their adult children are living with them is to save money, 11 per cent say it’s because of no job or job loss, seven per cent to save for a down payment and six per cent are living with their parents due to marriage or relationship breakdown.
Eighty-three per cent of boomers think it’s important to pay off their mortgages before they retire, but 61 per cent still have a mortgage. Of those boomers surveyed, 22 per cent believe their home will be their primary source of income when they retire.
“Many boomers who have yet to retire are still carrying a mortgage, but unlike their parents, this generation may continue to tap into their home equity, when retired, for the things that matter most to them,” says Adams. “In early retirement, the ‘middle-agers’ may want to help their boomerang kids get established, upgrade their home, or buy a vacation property. In the ‘senior’ phase of retirement, they may use those funds as income to cover any rising costs and taxes required to stay put in their current home.”
Eighty-eight per cent of boomers feel a home that is well suited for entertaining family and friends is appealing. Over three-quarters (78 per cent) would like to have a maintenance service for their home, while 59 per cent find a condominium community attractive, with security, landscaping, and shared amenities such as a pool, gym or golf course.
More than half (59 per cent) of boomers are interested in a new construction retirement home, with the latest cutting edge designs and features. Almost half (47 per cent) indicate that they will likely be moving to a smaller home when they retire; only 10 per cent are interested in a larger home. One in three (35 per cent) want a bungalow, or everything they need on one floor.
Most of us enjoy breathing sweet, clean air. But for the many people who suffer from allergies and respiratory problems, clean air is a necessity, not an indulgence. Fortunately, homeowners these days have a wide range of options that can help them breathe more easily and comfortably in the home.
The traditional furnace air filter isn't designed to clean air much at all. Its only function is to keep large particles like hair and debris from damaging the furnace blower. These large particles are rarely the source of human breathing difficulty.
The main advantage of traditional filters is that they provide low-cost protection to the heating and cooling equipment. But beware, if you don't change these furnace filters every month or two, they will become clogged and eventually drastically reduce your furnace's air supply. At the very least, clogged filters will make your furnace work harder and waste energy. At worse, it will cause "cycling," which can ruin the blower motor.
Cycling occurs when your furnace overheats. The furnace is equipped with a safety feature which automatically shuts it off when it gets too hot. Typically, overheating occurs when the furnace doesn't get enough air flow. Air flow can be hindered by a dirty filter or by furniture blocking return registers. After the furnace cools somewhat, it automatically turns back on. A minute or so later, it overheats and cuts off again. This on-and-off cycling is very hard on the motor. It will also usually limit the furnace's ability to heat the house on especially cold days.
While traditional filters cost less than $2, there are many fancier filters on the market today that filter out enough particulate matter to help humans breathe better. In general, the more costly the filter, the more dust it snags out of the airstream. Costing anywhere from $7 to $100, sophisticated filters can pull out up to five times as much dust as a traditional filter.
Whenever you try a new filter, make sure your furnace doesn't start cycling. After installing the new filter, turn the furnace on and listen carefully. If it cuts off after a few minutes and it does so before the house has reached the temperature you indicated on the thermostat, you may have a problem. If the pattern repeats, check to see if the return air registers around the house are obstructed. If the registers are clear but the furnace keeps cycling, switch back to your original filters.
If you aren't ready to settle for dirty air, ask a professional if your furnace can be modified to accommodate better filters or consider installing an electronic air cleaner. The more advanced the filter, the smaller the particles of dust it can trap. Household dust typically includes large quantities of hair, skin and pollen. It also includes lots of dust mites.
Dust mites are microscopic bugs that look like a cross between Godzilla and a tick -- nasty critters -- and the typical home has millions of them. Fortunately, they are too small to see with the naked eye. If you could see them, you'd probably feel compelled to move out. While the dust mites can be very irritating to the lungs, their dung and carcasses can be even worse.
Generally, the better the air filtering or cleaning system, the more dust mites and dust mite debris that is filtered out of the air. The most impressive filters use electrostatic energy to help capture about 5 times as many particles as a traditional filter. These filters have plastic or metal strips that generate static electricity when the air blows over them. In turn, the static electricity attracts very tiny particles.
As with the basic filter, it is important to change all filters regularly. Some filters are reusable. With these, take them outside and hose them down once every month or two. In the winter, use a deep laundry sink. Many people buy these filters thinking they will save money. But, after cleaning them a couple of times, they decide it's too much bother and switch back to disposables. The choice is yours, but make sure you don't allow dirty filters to stay in your furnace.
Electronic air cleaners, which can extract 30 times as much dust as ordinary filters, cost a lot more. In fact, a professionally installed air cleaner costs $500 to $700, including installation.
While this is a substantial amount of money, it's worth every penny if it offers significant breathing relief to one or more people in your household. But, if the price is too steep for you, portable units can be purchased for far less. Of course, the smaller units clean just the air in one room - much like a window air conditioner cools only one room.
Electronic air cleaners only need to be cleaned once a year or so because they incinerate the trapped dust. The human body is well equipped to handle breathing dirty air, so most people have no problem breathing normal household air - dust mites and all. But if someone in your household suffers from asthma, chronic bronchitis, emphysema, allergies or other respiratory problems, you should investigate ways to make the air in your home more breathable.
Smoke detectors save lives, and so
can Realtors. By giving a smoke detector as a closing gift or by
ensuring there are working smoke detectors in the homes they visit
every day, real estate agents can make a difference, says Ron
Merkley.
Merkley, a broker/appraiser with Ron Merkley
Real Estate & Appraisal in Brockville, Ont., knows the tragedy of
fire first hand as a volunteer firefighter. Selected as one of
Brockville’s first volunteer firefighters in the early 1980s,
Merkley worked five major fires in his first three months on the
job, the first with two fatalities.
Unfortunately,
during his 25 years of service, he has seen the number of fire
fatalities increase. This year in Ontario, there have been 26
fatalities. Statistics show that about 50 per cent of fatalities
could be prevented by working smoke alarms, he says.
“Fortunately in our area, there has been a decline in the number and
severity of fires. That decline can be attributed to increased
diligence by fire prevention officers, more public education and
better building materials and code enforcement,” Merkley says.
“However, as a firefighter, it is very discouraging to hear
and read the news stories about the fatalities that have occurred
elsewhere in the last three months, in most cases due to the lack of
working smoke detectors.”
Because the volunteer
firefighter is also a Realtor, he says he believes real estate
agents can play a role in helping to prevent these tragedies. “No
one is invited into private homes more than Realtors. We can use
those opportunities to provide a public service by advising
homeowners about the value of smoke detectors, or even providing
them, because the cost is very low. If we could save even one life,
it would be worth it.”
Merkley talks about fire safety
at Ontario Real Estate Association gatherings (he was president in
2000) and as current PAC chairman of the St. Lawrence Real Estate
Board. “I have been there and done it. I have seen fatalities and
seen how smoke detectors can help. I can spread the word with
passion,” he says.
In 1981, when Merkley was already
well-established in his real estate career, the chief of the
Brockville Fire Department and city council established a composite
fire service for the municipality. “I was honoured to compete for
and to have been chosen as one of the initial 10 volunteer
firefighters for the composite force. In the early years, we were
assigned our own truck, and I obtained my Class D license to be one
of the drivers. I responded to many major fires in the 1980s and
1990s.”
Merkley, who has a scrapbook of the major
fires he has responded to, says the job is a rewarding one. Being a
volunteer firefighter is “an opportunity to give back to the
community while earning the respect of the full-time firefighters,
many of whom have become friends,” he says. “I also saw it as a
chance to do something that I truly loved.”
Merkley
has received a 25-year long service award from the Ontario Fire
Marshal and an exemplary service award from the federal government.
He says he was 32-years-old and had he not already had a
successful career in real estate, would have become a full-time
firefighter. Instead, he got to have “the best of both worlds.”
He recently became involved with Fire Marshal’s Public Fire
Safety Council and plans to continue spreading the message about
smoke alarms, carbon monoxide detectors and fire safety in the home,
and he wants all Realtors to join in the fight.
Smoke
alarms are available at a reduced price to real estate agents. Call
the fire marshal’s distribution centre at 1-866-379-6668, ext. 107
for more information or to place an order.
Realtors
can also promote fire safety by handing out brochures and educating
homeowners. Fire safety brochures, including such titles as Home
Escape Planning and Kitchen Fire Safety, are also
available.
Home inspections have traditionally been for the
benefit of the purchaser. Pre-inspected listings benefit all parties
- purchasers, vendors and Realtors.
Deals Won't
Fall Through
Home
inspections, performed as a condition of the offer, can kill
deals. Sometimes this is because
the purchaser gets cold feet; sometimes there's a big problem no
one knew about. Sometimes it is because the house has been misrepresented;
sometimes it is because the home inspector scared the purchasers
by not explaining that minor and typical problems are just that
- minor and typical.
If the home inspection is performed
prior to the house being listed, all parties will be aware of the
physical condition of the house before an offer is drawn. There
will be no surprises after the fact. Deals will not fall through.
Pre-inspected
Listings Avoid Renegotiation
In a buyers' market,
most houses have to be sold twice. It takes a lot of work to get
a signed Agreement of Purchase and Sale. Then the home inspection
is done and the purchaser wants to renegotiate.
If
all parties know the condition of the house prior to the offer,
there is no need for renegotiation.
As most real estate agents know, renegotiation is very difficult.
Vendors have already mentally sold the house; purchasers are
suffering
buyers' remorse. Egos, pride and frustration can muddy the already
emotional waters.
A vendor who pays for a home inspection
will be further ahead than one who has to renegotiate. He of she
may even sell the house faster.
Unrealistic
Vendors
An inspection at the
time of listing can also help a Realtor deal with a vendor who has
unrealistic expectations. The inspection report is good ammunition
for explaining why you can't ask top bucks for a house which is
not in top condition.
Repairs Prior
To Sale
Sometimes, the home
inspection will reveal items which should be repaired immediately.
A pre-inspected listing allows the vendor to repair the problem
prior to putting the house on the market.
If the inspection occurs after the
Agreement of Purchase and Sale, the purchaser could walk, renegotiate
or, depending on the inspection clause, the vendor may have the
option to repair. A repair done by an unmotivated vendor may not
be the best repair and may not meet the purchasers' expectations.
This has caused more than one deal not to close.
Peace Of
Mind For The Purchaser
There is no doubt that
part of the value of a home inspection is a guided tour of the house
for the prospective purchaser. The inspection company can return
to do a walk-through with the purchaser, if requested.
Reputable
Inspection Companies
Pre-inspected listings
will only have value if the home inspection company is perceived
to be reputable, qualified and properly insured. Prospective purchasers
will have little or no faith in a report done by someone they perceive
to be in the vendors', or Realtors' pocket.
The hardest house to date is a link
home. They appear to be single, but if you do some
digging they’re actually attached.
As home inspectors, we have some
tricks for figuring out the age of a house. In newer
subdivisions we pick up dates from
manhole covers, sidewalks, and curbs. This
will give you an idea of when the
subdivision was built. This obviously
doesn’t work in older neighborhoods.
Thermal pane windows usually have a
metal strip which separates the two panes of
glass. On that metal strip you will often find
the manufacturer’s name, a CMHC number,
and the date of manufacture. Again, this
information must be used carefully. It will
tell you the age of the window but not
necessarily the age of the house. Check
several windows. If they are all the same,
you have just figured out how old the house
is or the date when all of the windows
were upgraded.
On houses built within the last 20 - 25 years,
you will often find a sticker on the outside of
the electrical panel indicating the possession
date of the house. The Ontario New Home
Warranty Program (in its earlier days know
as HUDAC) placed these stickers on the
electrical panel so that the warranty period
could easily be established.
If you can be sure that the furnace or the
water heater is original, the gas inspection
sticker on either of these appliances is a good
indication of the age of the house.
Porcelain plumbing fixtures usually have a
manufacture date stamped into them. The
easiest place to pick up a date is off a toilet
(no jokes). If you remove the lid from the
tank, the date will often be stamped on the
underside of the lid and also inside the tank
near the water line. The date is usually on
the right hand side of the rear portion of the
tank when you are facing the toilet. The date
inside the tank is more reliable than the date on the lid because sometimes
lids get
broken and replaced. Again, you must look
for other clues to convince yourself that the
toilet is an original one. Otherwise, you have
only established the date when the
bathroom was renovated.
Certain building materials can be clues about
the age of a house. These clues can vary
dramatically by region. For example, in
Toronto, virtually all houses with stone
foundation walls were built before 1930. If you
go to Kingston, Ontario, however, and ask
when they stopped using stone foundation
walls, the response might be "You mean they
stopped using stone foundation walls?".
In Toronto, brick foundation walls were also
popular until about 1935. In other parts of
the province, you will find no brick
foundation walls at all. With the exception of
custom built houses, most houses built with
concrete block foundations are pre 1970.
Most subdivision houses built in the 70’s or
newer have poured concrete foundations.
Most brick houses in Ontario were solid
masonry construction (two wythes of brick)
up until the late 1960’s. Most brick houses
built after 1970 were brick veneer
construction (one wythe of brick with a
wood stud wall behind).
If you stand in an unfinished basement and
look up at the subflooring, you will find that
most houses before 1965 used plank
subflooring. After 1965, most houses had
plywood subflooring, until the early 1980’s,
when waferboard subflooring became
popular (with the builders at least).
Aluminum wiring began to be used
residentially in about 1965, however, it did
not really catch on until about 1970. When
was it banned? It was never banned,
however, it received so much bad press, that
aluminum wiring stopped going into houses
in about 1978. To this day, aluminum wiring
is still used to bring power into the house
from the street!
As you are probably aware, knob and tube
electrical wiring makes insurance companies
very nervous. Knob and tube wiring was
superseded by conventional modern wiring
in the late 1940’s. Even though wiring
looked modern through the 1950’s, it was
not until 1960 that modern wiring contained
a ground wire. Therefore, houses built
before 1960 have two prong outlets as
opposed to modern electrical outlets which
are designed for three prong plugs.
Before 1950, supply plumbing was
galvanized steel. Houses with galvanized
steel supply plumbing also tended to have
cast iron waste plumbing.
In about 1955, waste plumbing was more
likely to be copper than cast iron. In the late
1960’s, the price of copper went through the
roof. Waste plumbing very quickly became
plastic. (It was this jump in the price of
copper that also lead to the use of
aluminum wiring.)
Old houses have plaster on the walls and
ceilings whereas new houses are built with
drywall. When did the change occur? While
there was no magic day when plasterers quit
and drywallers began, most houses built
before 1960 were plaster and most houses
after were drywall.
Dating houses can be helpful for a number
of reasons; for example, the type of furnaces
installed 20-25 years ago have a life
expectancy of 20-25 years. Therefore, most
houses built in the early 1970’s have a new
furnace or will need one shortly. Most
houses built in the early 1980’s were built
with asphalt shingle roofs that lasted up to
15 years. Again, most of these houses either
have a new roof covering or
need one. The good news
about a 1982 house in need
of new shingles is that it
couldn’t possibly contain
Urea Formaldehyde Foam
Insulation. It was banned in
December of 1980!!
When getting your home ready to sell, you need to look
at your house in a new way. Think of your house as a product about to go
on the market where it is probably competing with brand new housing. It
needs to show well – which means clutter-free and well kept.
Today’s homebuyers lead busy lives and may not be interested in taking
on major repairs or improvements upon moving in. You need to make your
house a “10”. This document will help you spot what is right and what is
not so good about your product. It will give you the opportunity to take
corrective action to ensure your house looks fresh, clean and well
maintained when the “for sale” sign goes up.
Fix It First
If you need to make improvements to your home, do the work before it
goes on the market. Potential buyers are not interested in hearing about
your good intentions to look after defects before a transfer of
ownership takes place. Even if fix-up work is underway, buyers may not
be able to visualize what your home will look like when the work is
finished. They will just remember it being in a state of disrepair.
Professional Inspection, Yes or No?
A serious buyer may want to
have a professional home inspector check your house from top to bottom
before making an offer. Even though this guide will help you identify
problems on your own, the option of hiring a professional home inspector
is open to you, as well. If you can afford it, an inspection in advance
of putting your home on the market is a good idea. It is your best way
of finding and taking care of serious deficiencies before an inspector
hired by a potential buyer discovers them.
Homeowner’s
Inspection Checklist
This practical, easy-to-follow guide for
homeowners will help you identify common house problems and deal with
them. In it, you will find illustrated how-to tips offering effective
solutions for every room of your house. Use the ordering instructions on
the back page of this fact sheet.
Let’s Begin Outside
Check Your House’s Curb Appeal
How does your house look from
the street? That is where prospective buyers will be when they first see
your home; and, that is where they will form that all-important first
impression. Stand at the curb in front of your house and note what you
see.
Remove any clutter in your yard.
Repair cracked or uneven driveway or walkway surfaces.
If your lawn has bald spots, apply some top dressing and
re-seed. Prune trees and shrubs of dead wood. Weed and mulch
flower beds, if you have them. If it is the right time of year,
consider buying some flower-filled planters to enhance the eye
appeal of your property. Make sure your lawn is mowed regularly.
Ensure that the composter area is tidy.
Are your windows and walls clean?
Does your front door need paint?
Ensure your eaves and downspouts are clear of debris and in good
repair.
Are your backyard deck and walkways clean? If not, use a power
washer and do any necessary painting, staining or sealing.
If you have a swimming pool, are the deck and pool clean (when
in season)?
Do all outside lights work? Replace any burned out bulbs, and
clean fixtures of dirt and cobwebs.
Is there a shed? Does it look presentable?
Do windows and exterior doors need recaulking? Even at 6-7 years
of age, the caulking may be dried out and in need of
replacement.
Do you have decorative wooden poles on the porch? Is the wood at
the bottom in good condition and overall does it need a new coat
of paint?
If you have a gate, is it well oiled?
When you have completed the curb appeal inspection, carefully check the
rest of your home’s exterior.
Will your roof and chimney pass
inspection?
If you are uneasy about climbing onto your roof,
you can inspect most items from the ground using binoculars. Otherwise,
be careful when working or moving about on your roof. Unless roof repair
is a simple matter of applying new caulking, you will probably need the
services of a professional.
Check the general condition of your roof. Sagging sections, curled
shingles, pooled water on flat roofs and corrosion on metal roofing
mean it is time for repair or replacement.
Both masonry and metal chimneys need to be straight and
structurally sound, have proper capping on top and watertight
flashing where they penetrate the roof.
All roofs undergo stress from snow and rain loads so it is
possible a truss or rafter may become damaged, resulting in a
noticeable small depression. A professional should do this
inexpensive repair.
Examine
Your Walls
The condition of your exterior walls directly
affects the look and curb appeal of your home.
Replace old caulking.You may have to cut or scrape away old caulking
to get a good seal. Do not seal drainage or ventilation gaps.
Is your exterior paint looking good? If you see faded colours
and cracked or peeling surfaces, you need to repaint. Be sure to
get competitive bids if you hire professional painters.
You can clean vinyl siding but defects or damage to it and to
metal siding usually means replacement.
Stucco can be repaired but some skill is required to blend
patches with existing stucco.
Now,
Let’s Go Indoors
A prospective buyer will usually enter through
your front door; so, that is where you should begin your interior
inspection.You want your buyer to see a neat, clean, well-lit interior.
Get clutter out of sight; ensure that carpets are clean and floors are
scrubbed and polished; and that walls and trim show fresh paint
(preferably neutral or light colours).
Take a sniff. Are there
any unpleasant odours in your home? If so, track them down and eliminate
them. Ensure all your lights work and are free of cobwebs.You want your
home to look spacious, bright and fresh.
If you have considerable
family memorabilia about, consider thinning it out.Your objective is to
help potential buyers feel as if they could live in your home. That
mental leap becomes more difficult for them if your house resembles a
shrine to you and your family.
Professional realtors and
decorators say the most important areas of your home to upgrade and
modernize are the kitchen and bathrooms. Buyers also want to see new or
recently installed floor coverings throughout.
General
Interior
Check stairs for loose boards, ripped carpeting, and missing or
loose handrails and guards.
Most problems with interior walls are cosmetic and can be
repaired with spackling compound and paint.
Ensure doors open and shut properly. Minor sticking is normal
but excessive binding indicates possible structural problems.
Open and close all windows to ensure they work properly. Fogging
between the panes of a sealed window indicates the seal is
broken and the unit needs to be replaced.
Living Room, Halls, Family Room, Den, Bedrooms
Keep furniture
to a minimum so these rooms do not appear smaller than they are. Ensure
that traffic can flow in or through these rooms unimpeded. If they
contain bookshelves or cabinets overflowing with books, magazines and
knick-knacks, remove some of these items. Ensure bedroom closets look
spacious, organized and uncluttered. Create space by getting rid of old
clothes and junk. Remember to remove or lock away valuables such as
jewellery, coins, currency, cameras and compact discs.
Kitchens and Bathrooms
People splash water around in the kitchen and bathrooms so check
around sinks, tubs and toilets for rotting countertops and floors.
Problems could be due to poor caulking or plumbing leaks. Fogged
windows, molds and sweating toilet tanks indicate high humidity
levels, which you can remedy with exhaust fans.
In the kitchen, clean all appliances, including your oven. Clean
or replace your greasy stove hood filter. Clean your cabinets
inside and out, as well as your countertops and backsplashes.
Repair dripping faucets.
Remove anything stored on top of your fridge and remove artwork
and magnets.
Remove any items stored on countertops.
Remove items stored under the sink.
In bathrooms, scrub sinks, tubs and toilets taking care to
remove any rust stains. Remove mildew from showers and bathtubs.
Fix dripping faucets or trickling toilets, and vacuum your fan
grill.
Clean mirrors, light switch plates and cupboard handles.
Consider installing new 6-litre toilets if you currently have
water-guzzlers.
If you have ceramic tile in either your kitchen or bathroom,
ensure grouting is intact and clean.
Basement
The condition of the foundation and main structural
members in the basement are critical to the fitness of any house. The
purpose of your inspection is to make sure these are sound and durable.
Look for cracks, water seepage, efflorescence (white powder-like
substance), crumbling mortar or concrete and rotting wood. If any of
these problems are present, you need to do further research to learn
about causes and possible solutions.
In general, if your basement
is damp or musty, consider a dehumidifier. Like all other areas of your
home, your basement should be organized and clutter-free.
Change
the filters in the furnace and have it cleaned–this is the number one
item purchasers want done after a home inspection. If you have a pet
with a litterbox, ensure the litterbox is clean.
Garage
Get rid of the broken tools, old car parts, discarded bicycles, empty
paint cans and the hundreds of other useless items that accumulate in
garages. Again, you want a clutter-free zone. Use cleaning solutions to
remove oil stains from the floor.
When It’s Showtime!
You have inspected your house and taken care of problems. Now you are
ready for showings. You will need a plan of action that assigns duties
to each family member so the place can quickly be whipped into shape.
Open all drapes, blinds, etc. and turn on lights to make the house
bright.
Air out the house to get rid of cooking, pet odours, etc.
Have fresh flowers in view.
Pick up clutter, and empty garbage.
Make sure everything is spotless.
Set your thermostat at a comfortable level.
Remove pets from the house or put them outside.
If you have an agent, leave when the house is being shown. If
you are selling it yourself, you need to strike a balance
between being helpful and crowding the buyer.
In poor weather, provide a place for boots, overshoes and
umbrellas.
Display photos of house in summer to show landscaping if selling
in winter months.
Leave out heating and hydro bills.
For those on a septic system and/or well, leave out inspection
and maintenance information.
EQuilibrium housing combines
passive solar, energy efficient design, construction and appliances,
integrated with commercially available on-site renewable energy systems to
achieve net zero energy consumption on an annual basis, significantly
reduced green house gas (GHG) emissions, and low environmental impacts
relating to other resources, such as water, land and air). Essentially, an
EQuilibrium healthy house is a highly energy efficient, grid-tied home that
produces as much energy as it uses on an annual basis.
EQuilibrium
housing incorporates CMHC’s five principles for Healthy HousingTM
— Occupant Comfort; Energy Efficiency; Resource Conservation; Environmental
Impact; Affordability. EQuilibirum Housing follows sustainable community
design principles to ensure minimal environmental impact and proper layout
of a development to optimize resources, infrastructure and solar exposure of
the site, and reduces transportation related impacts due to community
design.
EQuilibrium housing optimizes a number of key features:
Climate specific design
Energy and resource efficient
construction
Passive solar heating and cooling
Natural
daylighting
Energy efficient appliances and lighting
Renewable energy systems, such as photovoltaics, solar thermal and
ground-source heat systems
Water conservation and re-use
Land and natural habitat conservation
Sustainable community
design and green infrastructure practices
Utility grid
connection to exchange energy
Goals
EQuilibrium housing represents an integrated industry/government/consumer
contribution to address Canadian environmental quality and climate change
issues in the housing sector. A long-term vision is for all new homes
to be built to EQuilibrium housing standards by 2030.
The goals of
the EQuilibrium housing initiative are to:
Develop a clear
vision and approach to achieve EQuilibrium housing in Canada;
Build capacity and lower the barriers for Canada’s housing and renewable
energy industry sectors to create high-quality EQuilibrium housing
across the country over the long term; and
Achieve market
acceptance of highly energy-efficient healthy houses and sustainable
communities.
Benefits to Homeowners
EQuilibrium
housing offers a number of advantages to homeowners, including:
Reduction in housing operating costs
Healthier indoor
environment
Protection from increasing energy prices
Greater comfort
Energy supply security
Positive
environmental contribution
Working together
Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) is leading the federal
government participation in the EQuilibrium housing initiative. Ultimately,
the vision for the EQuilibrium housing initiative in Canada is that of an
industry-led venture supported by Canada's federal, provincial and municipal
governments. Key stakeholders include members of Canada's housing and
renewable energy industries, such as developers, homebuilders, utilities,
manufacturers, architects, engineers, academics, integrated design experts
and researchers, and other federal departments such as Natural Resources
Canada, Environment Canada and Industry Canada.
The EQuilibrium
housing initiative will build on the expertise cultivated by all these
various partners in environmentally sound and occupant-friendly design and
construction techniques and practices. It will bring together public- and
private-sector members of the housing and renewable energy industries
through an integrated design development process to create new community
solutions for healthy cities and a clean energy future.
Two out of three first-time buyers considering a home
purchase are confident in future housing values but are thinking
about monthly payments, the potential for rising property taxes and
interest rates, says a new report by Genworth Financial Canada.
“Overall, this report illustrates that
Canadians continue to have confidence in the strength of the housing
market. They take cyclical market fluctuations in stride and are
focused on the long-term benefits of building equity sooner,” says
Peter Vukanovich, president of Genworth Financial Canada.
“That said, there are some issues which
do concern them, such as high monthly payments. But the good news is
that there are innovative mortgage insurance solutions available to
help make home ownership more affordable,” says Vukanovich.
Only 33 per cent of first-time buyers
surveyed for the report said “a drop in house values in the future”
was of concern to them, making it the lowest-rated of seven possible
factors. The top consideration, at 63 per cent, of first-time buyers
nationally was “high monthly payments,” which was highest in the
most expensive housing markets, including Alberta (74 per cent), the
Greater Toronto Area (73 per cent), Ontario (71 per cent) and
British Columbia (65 per cent).
Rising property taxes were cited by
almost 60 per cent of first-time buyers across the country – a level
of worry that peaks at about 70 per cent in British Columbia,
Alberta and the Greater Toronto Area. Almost 60 per cent nationally
were also apprehensive about rising interest rates.
“Canadians are savvy shoppers and
they’re looking at the bigger financial picture,” says Vukanovich.
“Economic factors like monthly payments, rising interest rates and
property tax increases are playing a much greater role in home
ownership decisions – particularly among the first-time home buyer
segment.”
First-time buyers in the Greater Toronto
Area and in Alberta are, however, concerned about future house
values. Following extraordinary housing price spikes in Alberta’s
red-hot economy, which have begun to moderate, 54 per cent of buyers
surveyed were worried about declining values. In Toronto, where home
and condo values also have climbed rapidly, 50 per cent of
first-time buyers expressed the same sentiment.
The Genworth survey also shows:
• The most common level of down payment intended was between five
to 10 per cent, while 25 years was the most preferred amortization
term and a five-year mortgage term remains most popular nationally.
• Nationally, most first-time buyers planned to spend between
$100,000 and $199,000, except in Alberta and the Greater Toronto
Area, where respondents cited $200,000 to $299,000, and British
Columbia, where first-time buyers expected to pay $300,000 to
$399,000.
• Almost 60 per cent of first-time buyers said they’d get mortgage
information from the Internet, including the use of online mortgage
calculators to see what monthly payment they could afford.
By federal law any government or
private company which provides water to at least 25 people on a regular basis
must comply with certain testing requirements.
Assuming that the required
level of testing occurs, that means the water at it's point of distribution is
of reasonable quality. However, there are a number of things that can happen
between that distribution point and your faucet tap. Some of these things
include: Cracked or broken distribution pipes. In many cities and towns the
water pipes could be several decades old, in some communities the pipes could be
over a century old. Ground water can enter cracked or broken pipes bringing any
number of contaminants with it. In some cases there are faulty flow control
valves which can allow other customer's water to back flow into your water
supply.
Chlorine is often added to public
water. Trihalomethanes are a group of chemicals that are created as a by product
of chlrorinazation. These chemicals are suspected carcinogens if their levels
exceed certain limits. Any home constructed prior to 1990 may have plumbing
pipes that were joined together using lead based solder. The solder in some
cases can leach out and get into the water supply. Some older homes may also
have lead pipes leading to the public water main. While the lead from these
pipes doesn't always enter the drinking water, the only way to be certain is by
testing.
In conclusion, drinking water quality
should be an important consideration of your new home. Doing the correct level
of testing will inform you and your family whether you will be able to enjoy
safe drinking water. Be sure to ask your professional home inspector about water
quality testing.
Spring is just around the corner, and home maintenance thoughts start turning
from inside to outside. Maybe you're considering getting your home ready to sell
this spring and need to check out its "curb appeal", or maybe you're just
getting things ready for the coming outdoor season -- either way, the following
checklist should help your plans to spruce things up, and also give you a head
start on warding off future maintenance problems.
Fences: A good place to start is with the
perimeter of your property. Winter plays havoc with fences, so check
them out carefully. Wiggle the posts to see that they're still
firmly set, and look for loose fence boards and loose or rotted
stringers. Check also to see if the fence is due for a fresh coat of
paint or other finish.
Drainage: While walking the property, be sure
and think about drainage around your home as well. Winter storms can
cause shifts in local topography that may change drainage patterns,
allowing water to move or pool around the foundation, or come into
contact with your siding. Look for areas of water staining on the
concrete, or dirt or water stain patterns on siding.
Trees: In the wet and well-treed Northwest, you
need to keep an eye on potential problems caused by the trees on
your property. As you tour, look for limbs that have cracked or are
sagging, or trees that may have more of a lean than you remember.
Check for overhanging limbs that may be shading the roof and causing
mildew problems, or that may be deposing leaves or pine needles that
can clog gutters and create a fire hazard.
Foundation: Check the foundation for signs of
cracks or other leakage problems. Small cracks can be a source for
seepage into the crawl space, and you especially want to take notice
of larger cracks that may indicate movement in the ground under or
around the home. If you've noticed water in the basement, keep that
in mind as you analyze both the foundation and the surrounding
drainage patterns.
Decks: Rain and snow take their toll on your
decks, so check them over carefully. Check the condition of the
boards for rot or splitting. Walk the entire deck to check for
protruding nails, and also to see if everything feels solid --
sometimes a simple walk will point up loose supports or areas that
need addition bracing. You'll also want to pay attention to deck
rails, looking for loose boards, missing nails, separated joints,
and support posts that feel wobbly. Finally, check the condition of
the deck's finish, and determine if a fresh coat is due this summer.
Siding: Carefully examine the siding to see what
winter has wrought. Look at the paint, especially on the main
weather-exposure sides of the house. Check the caulking around
windows, trim boards, and siding penetrations such as lights and
faucets. Look for cracked or sagging boards, or nails that are
working loose.
House numbers: While you're looking at the
siding, take a moment to check your house numbers. Are the firmly
attached and clearly visible from the street? Do they even exist?
Gutters: Bad gutters can cause a variety of
moisture problems, and also detract from the appearance of your
home. Check that gutters are firmly attached, and that downspouts
are well secured and draining properly away from the house. Check
the paint for deterioration, especially around joints where you may
find indications of leaks in the seams.
Roofing: Let your eyes keep wandering upward,
and take a critical look at the condition of your roofing -- you may
even find that a pair of binoculars comes in handy. Check to see if
shingles have blown off or worked loose, or if they're starting to
curl. For asphalt shingles, look at the overall condition of the
mineral granules that coat the shingles. Look at the ridge shingles
-- especially wood ridge -- to see if any are missing or cracked.
Check the condition of flashings and skylights as well.
Chimneys: Take a very close look at chimneys and
flue pipes, which again can take a beating during the winter. For
masonry chimneys, look for loose bricks or rock, or mortar joints
that are deteriorating. For metal wood stove flues and flues for gas
appliances, check the flashings, the condition of the pipes, and the
condition of the flue cap. If you see any problems with your chimney
or flue pipes, have a professional check and repair them immediately
-- problems in these areas are serious potential fire hazards.
In a new national poll by TD Canada
Trust, a portrait of the individual Canadian woman homeowner has
emerged as single, financially savvy and most likely to purchase a
condominium.
The poll, conducted in the first two
weeks of this year by Ipsos-Reid, was among women aged 20 to 45 who
have purchased a home as an individual rather than jointly with a
spouse or common law partner. Among this group, the average age at
which they purchased their first home is 29 years. Eighty-two per
cent are single, 80 per cent have no children and 49 per cent have a
university degree. Most (86 per cent) still live in the last home
they purchased and have made only one home purchase as an
individual.
“With more and more Canadian
women marrying later in life or remaining single, we’re seeing the
emergence of the young, financially savvy woman who’s taking on the
commitments, joys and responsibilities of owning a home,” says Joan
Dal Bianco, vice-president, TD Canada Trust.
Respondents indicate their main
motivation for buying a home was that it was a good investment (71
per cent), that they didn’t want to pay rent anymore (61 per cent)
and their desire to get into the housing market (54 per cent). More
than three-quarters (77 per cent) say their biggest worry prior to
purchase was the affordability/financial commitment, while half (51
per cent) cited having to assume homeowner responsibilities such as
maintenance and a homeowner’s legal liabilities.
“For women, independence means, among
other things, not having to worry about a roof over your head and
having a good retirement plan,” says Patricia Lovett-Reid, senior
vice-president of TD Waterhouse. “The beautiful thing about home
ownership is that it gives women security in the present while
allowing them to build equity for the future.”
First-time condo buyer Lisa Olsen, a
22-year-old Torontonian, feels a sense of pride in having a place of
her own. “I wanted get into the real estate market early and have my
money go towards something tangible,” she says.
The online survey was conducted among
713 women living in major metropolitan areas across Canada and
reflects the population of Canadian women in these areas aged 20-45
according to 2006 Census data.
Overall, condominiums are the most
popular option for individual women homeowners (42 per cent),
followed by houses (34 per cent), townhouses (13 per cent) and
duplexes or triplexes (six per cent). Vancouver women, at 73 per
cent, are most likely to buy a condo, followed by Toronto women (52
per cent). In Calgary, Edmonton and Montreal, condos and houses have
the same appeal to individual women buyers. But in Prairie and
Atlantic Canadian cities, houses are the top choice for individual
women homeowners (64 per cent Prairies, 57 per cent Atlantic).
Across all types of homes, cost and
location of the neighbourhood emerge as the two top selection
criteria by women homeowners. As for condo vs. house, cost is sited
as a decision factor significantly more often by condo buyers than
house buyers (77 per cent vs. 57 per cent).
The same applies to low or no
maintenance (50 per cent for condo buyers vs. eight per cent for
home buyers). Conversely, significantly more house buyers than condo
buyers cite wanting a yard (48 per cent vs. one per cent) and size
(42 per cent vs. 33 per cent) as decision factors. What are the best
and worst aspects of owning a home for the individual woman
homeowner?
While no single best aspect emerges,
the three top mentions are financial security and building equity
(23 per cent), having a place of one’s own (22 per cent) and gaining
independence and control (18 per cent). The worst aspect by far is
maintenance and repairs (21 per cent of respondents), followed by
the cost of maintenance and repairs (six per cent).
Half of respondents (50 per cent) say
their main reason for selling would be to trade up. Forty-one per
cent say it would be for more space and 37 per cent say it would be
to switch to a different type of home. Only 29 per cent say it would
be because they are getting married.
“We are witnessing nothing less than
a revolution among individual Canadian women,” says Dal Bianco.
“Right across the country, they are investing in themselves and in
their futures by becoming homeowners, and in doing so are strongly
reinforcing their financial and personal freedom.”
Grading that can collect and hold water near and next to a foundation wall can
cause basement flooding. Flooding into a finished basement area can lead to mold
growth within 48 hours. Long term water leakage can cause wood rot to wall
framing members and can damage the foundation. Stored items can become damaged
after a flood into a basement.
I find grading problems on almost every home that I inspect. Most flooding will
occur in the spring when the ground begins to thaw and spring rain arrives. The
grade is just like a roof on a house. A grade that pitches towards a home can
direct water to the home. This can be critical during the winter when the ground
is frozen and snow covered. A heavy rain can quickly cause flooding next to a
foundation wall and then leak into the basement. Heavy rain can occur any time
during the year.
Question the owner about any past flooding into the home. Check your disclosure
statement if you have a disclosure law in your state. Flooding of a basement can
be one of the worst surprises a new home owner encounters. I have seen a home
that was flooding on the day of the home inspection and the owner said they
never had water during the 10 years that they lived there. This is possible.
Every 6-8-10 years can be very wet. I saw the 10th wettest year in my area. Any
possible evidence of past flooding is important to determine before you buy the
home so that you can make an informed decision on purchase or negotiation with
the seller.
Ideas to reduce basement water leakage:
Pitch all grades away from a
home. The ground adjacent to the foundation should be sloped
away from a building at a slope not less that 1 inch per 1 foot
of grade for a distance of not less than 8 feet. Note: If the
house has a hill side directed to the house even this above
recommendation could be defeated. In some cases a grade and
below grade drain needs to be installed to direct water away
from the ground adjacent to a foundation. An engineer sometimes
needs to design such a drain. I have seen a case where a curtain
drain was needed and the cost was almost $20,000.
Drain water from gutters into dry wells placed at least 20 feet from a
building. Again, this relates to soil conditions, general pitch of the
surrounding grade, house elevation as the house sits near coastal flood plain
areas or wet land areas. High water tables can be located 3-4 inches below a
basement slab year round in some homes. Many people drain their sump pumps into
town or city sewers which is illegal in most areas.
Keep grass clippings away from the perimeter of the home. Grass clippings
can raise the grade around a house over time and create low moat areas in the
perimeter gardens that can hold water. In most cases the water will travel down
into the earth and then find small cracks and openings in the foundation and end
up in the basement.
To sum it up: A basement is a hole in the ground.
Do not make it easy for water to fill the hole.
Termites often enter wood sill areas
in a home at masonry exterior steps/slabs. Termites will eat wood members often
causing structural failure and expensive repair costs. An inexperienced home
inspector will sometimes miss termite evidence/damage. This can lead to
unexpected bills after a closing. Make sure your home inspector is experienced
in termite pest control. The best inspector is a person that is actually working
in the termite business. If the inspector is also completing a building
inspection he/she should not violate ASHI standards in accepting any pest
control work as a result of a paid termite inspection coupled with a building
inspection. The buyer needs to be assured that the home inspector is not
completing work with a built in conflict of interest. Avoid any conflict of
interest.
I have been in the termite control
business for 27 years. I have treated many concrete/masonry steps and slabs to
control termites. A step or a slab is very much like a pile of dirt in contact
with your home. This pile of dirt will create an avenue where termites can sneak
into a home and start munching on wood members. I have seen a lot of structural
damage caused by termites. A tell tale sign is to look for compression of a sill
member. A wood sill member is attached to the foundation. If the sill has weight
on it the sill will compress like a wet sponge. The settlement is caused by the
termites eating the interior of the wood and leaving holes and gaps that can
collapse the sill to the consistency of cardboard. Steps and slabs are installed
after the main foundation is poured and the grade backfilled. This leaves a gap
just big enough for termites to enter the house between the steps and slabs.
Termites are smart. They would rather sneak into your house than just build a
termite tunnel up the side of the foundation. They can build an exterior tunnel
but they have been to school. Termites are actually building engineers. They
make their own concrete which is the tunneling material. So for example an
inspector must be very careful in any sill areas in the basement adjacent to
exterior steps and slabs. Porches built on slabs are common entry points of
termites.
Wood rot in sills adjacent to steps
and slabs is very common also. Builders will often omit metal flashing on the
sill/wall/sheathing surface before the steps or slabs are poured. Some material
such are “Ice and Water Shield” can sometimes be used. Years ago asphalt paper
was allowed but the paper can quickly deteriorate exposing sills to water.
Rotting sills is often the result after years of water leakage into wood
members. In many cases it is impossible to determine if there is proper
flashing. I will often look under the siding with my mirror to determine if
there is some evidence of flashing. Water stains and rot can often be visible in
the basement at sill areas adjacent to steps and slabs. There is no way to tell
the extent of rot damage unless the step/slab or portions are removed. An
inspector must look very carefully at these areas.
When damage is discovered you should
get three estimates for repair and negotiate before a closing or be prepared to
absorb the costs yourself.
We'd all like to buy the perfect
home. Unfortunately, it doesn't exist. Even new homes have defects. That's why
it's important to have any home you buy inspected by qualified
professionals-even if it's brand new.
You'll undoubtedly discover defects
during your inspections. In fact, you should hope that any significant defects
are uncovered before you remove your inspection contingency from the purchase
contract. It's far worse to be surprised after closing by unanticipated repair
expenses.
Armed with a complete assessment of
the current condition of the property, you can make an informed decision about
whether to purchase the property in its present condition. Or, you may want to
renegotiate the terms of your contract with the seller. If defects are
incurable, you may want to withdraw from the contract altogether.
Your purchase contract should set
guidelines for how inspection defects are to be handled. For example, the seller
may have had a "termite" inspection completed before marketing the property. If
so, the contract might specify which party-buyer or seller-will pay for the
required corrective work.
Not all inspection contingencies are
the same. Some specify that the buyers have the unilateral right to approve or
disapprove inspections. In this case, if the buyers disapprove the inspections,
the contract may be cancelable at the buyer's option.
House Hunting Tip:
Even if your contract allows you to withdraw due to inspections, carefully
consider before electing this option. You will already have spent considerable
time, effort and money finding and inspecting the property. If the defects are
correctable, it's usually worthwhile to try negotiating an agreement with the
sellers rather than starting the process over again.
Some inspection contingencies provide
for buyers to give the sellers the opportunity to correct defects, rather than
just walk away from the deal. In this case, the terms of the contract often
become subject to further negotiation.
Before asking a seller for
inspection-related concessions, make a list of the significant defects that you
discovered during your inspections. Then find out how much it will cost to
repair these defects. When you make your request, put it in writing and include
a copy of your cost accounting list along with the reports and estimates on
which you're basing your request.
You may find that the seller is not
willing to negotiating over items that were disclosed to you before you made an
offer to purchase the property. It still may be worthwhile to point out that the
cost of the previously disclosed items in addition to the newly discovered
defects alter the amount you can reasonably pay for the property.
Sellers are wise to consider
any reasonable proposal from a well-qualified buyer. If the inspection-related
defects are significant, they are likely to be a concern to other buyers.
Depending on the law in your state regarding seller disclosures, you may have to
provide copies of the buyer's reports to future buyers who are interested in the
property.
There are several ways in which
sellers can participate in buyers' repair requests. They can have the work done
by closing, if time permits. Often contractors will accept payment at closing.
Or they can credit money to buyers as
long as the credit is called a credit for buyers' nonrecurring closing costs.
Lenders usually limit the amount of such a credit to 3 percent of the purchase
price or equal to the actual amount of the nonrecurring closing costs, whichever
is less.
The Closing: Some
lenders will allow money from the seller to be held in an escrow or trust
account so that work can be completed after closing.
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